Quito: The Old Town

Leaving La Basílica, we went into the center of the city - Plaza Grande - where Daniel explained that the city originated there with the religious and political powerhouses physically in the same place.  Five hundred years later, the head of state, Ecuadorian President Rafael Correa, has at least a figurehead of a home in the town's center.  He resides right next to the Catedrál - still one of the most important churches in Ecuador.

 

In the old town's center, I was impressed with the flowers - types that I've only seen in fancy flower shops at home and rarely in such vibrant colors.  These were just growing in the plaza.

Leaving there, the sun was out and I stripped down to a t-shirt.  Little did I know that would be the last of the sun for the day.

We visited a church next door to la Catedrál which was fashioned for the indigenous people, so it was pretty simple...by Quito standards.  CFed and I talked about how this was a crazy statement, because compared with churches in the States, this was definitely fancy.  We were prohibited from taking photos of the interior of the church, but I found this one here. 

See why we thought it was fancy?  I have never seen a church stateside that looks like this one.

We left there and went to La Iglesia de San Francisco where they were about to begin noon mass.  Daniel told us that at this church they were very careful to care for the homeless, feeding them at noon and bathing them daily.

[Does anyone from my group have a photo of San Francisco?]

After San Francisco, where we learned he always carries a skull in his left hand (I can't remember why, but her does), we traveled by van with Carlos and Daniel up to the Vírgen de Quito, a huge statue made of 7,000 metal plates overlooking Quito.

 We could see this statue from the Basílica, so it was pretty neat to see it up close.  All around the statue, civilians were voluntarily cleaning up the grounds -- performing a kind of social work, Daniel told us.  The Virgin was atop a serpentine figure to symbolize peace conquering evil.  On the other side of the hill, we saw the south side of the city which was mostly residential with a law that buildings could be no higher than five stories.  This is also the poorer part of Quito, with the north and particularly the Cumbayá areas of Quito being the richer areas.  In the class breakdown of Quito, 90% are poor, 6% are middle class, and 4% are wealthy; the wealthy control the city.

Heading back into la parte vieja (the Old Town), we stopped back by Daniel's favorite church, La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús.  Upon walking in, we were struck by the decoration and ornateness of the church.  Covered in gold leaf, not a single surface was left unadorned.  From the painted spiral staircase to the exquisitely decorated ceiling, the entire church was symmetrical.  Daniel took us up to the alter where, using a large mirror that was permanent to the church, we looked at the angels painted on the inside of the ceiling.  One of the angels had a black face from a fire that burned one wing of the church.  That wing had since been replaced and the gold leaf on that section was much brighter than the rest of the church. 

Exploring Quito - Basílica del Voto Nacional

sábado, el 6 de febrero, 2010 (really getting into the Spanish spirit now)
  Last night the Feds (Joe & Caroline) got in around 11:30pm, right after I had just awoken from my post-dinner nap.  I headed up to their room to see them and only to find out that 5 of the 9 people on the Atlanta flight had missed the connection as they were coming from Lexington.  Poor Jim, Donna, Liz and the Hannas!  Davis, Allison Cornish and Jeannie and Tom Guskey all arrived around 12:30am and we greeted them in the lobby.  Davis and I stayed up talking for a while, only to pay the price for it today.
  When our 7:30am alarm went off today, neither D nor I were up for it.  Although, it only took us through breakfast (¡dame el café!) to realize the excitement of the day ahead.  After the continental breakfast in our hotel, Daniel, our guide from Adventure Life, met us for a day of fun touring.  Not only was he super cute and nice, he was an awesome guide who spoke great English (it was a little too good for my liking, because I had to coax him to speak to me in Spanish).

  Right away, Daniel and our driver Carlos took us to one of the largest churches in Quito, Basílica del Voto Nacional, where we first saw the tombs.  These above-ground graves are what Ecuadorians use as cemeteries, placing their loved ones inside stone boxes that they take care of and decorate periodically.  My toes were definitely tingling as we climbed up - and even more when we descended - but the view atop the tower made it all worthwhile.

Leaving the tombs, we ascended the towers of the Basílica (the only Gothic church in Quito) and walked across a wooden bridge that was positioned high above the nave of the church.  Not for the faint of heart, the boys (Tom and Coach Fed) stayed behind while we strong women headed up three ladders to the Tower of the Condor - the highest point in the north part of Quito.

 

The condor is the national bird of Ecuador, but he's not a pretty bird.  There were gargoyles all over this church, but not scary ones (aside from the condor); rather, these gargoyles are animals endemic to the area - tortoises, birds, etc. - all animals we would soon see in the Galápagos.

 

There was a little gift shop in the church inside one of the other towers, where Davis and I picked up some souvenir necklaces - for only $6!  We're wearing them in the photos above, and I'm sure you'll see them the rest of the week, since neither one of us brought any jewelry with us.

What churches from around the world have you visited?  Ever climbed to the top of a scary tower?  Tell me below!

Mysteriously Dining at Hotel Eugenia

It's 8:08pm now and I'm writing from Eugenia Hotel in Quito where I'm sitting at dinner alone and enjoying the time to myself as I feast on my dinner of pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken) with mixed vegetables.  I'll try to remember to take a photo of the food before I finish it next time.

I'm trying to decipher the country from where the other two gentlemen in the hotel restaurant originate.  They drop their Spanish the way the Sevillanos did, but I can't be sure, because it also sounds a little like Portuguese.  I'm a little nervous to use my Spanish, though I have been speaking it all day, because I have the same elementary fears of making a mistake.  What tense should I use?  Is that word masculine or feminine?  Is that form the "usted" or the "yo" form?  No big deal, right?  I really messed up my numbers when speaking to the waiter this evening (saying, "cien-nueve" instead of "ciento-nueve"), but he just laughed and probably, hopefully, thought it was cute.  I spent the entire dinner trying to remember the word for "check", and couldn't, but luckily was prompted by the waiter when he asked, ¿la cuenta?.  Ah!!
  The rest of the group arrives in a few hours and we'll head to the equator tomorrow and to the Galápagos Sunday!  I wonder if I look mysterious sitting alone writing in my journal....

 Excited for everyone else to join soon!  By the way, I'm exhausted from last night, but the altitude is definitely getting me too.  Be careful with the altitude in Quito and make sure to drink a lot of water (with or without bubbles) and avoid alcohol.  I didn't know about the effects of alcohol in the altitude before traveling (yes, they're well-published, but I've never been of-age in a high altitude location) and after half a beer, I was ready for bed again.  I'm turning in for now and hoping that Davis will wake me soon!

Have you ever had dinner alone in a foreign country?  Did you feel mysterious, too?

La Gringa en Quito

I've had a busy day since arriving in Quito around 1:30pm. I got a cab from the airport where I think I was ripped off with a $10 fare that should have been closer to $5, but the trip would have been closer to $20 in NYC, so oh well. As I was leaving the airport with my cabbie he said something to another guy, too quickly for me to recognize, but I thought it was about the fare and how he'd scored a gullible American girl. Little did he know, I was about to talk his ear off on the trip on the way to the hotel! I had my first panic attack about my passport - it was buried deeper in my bag than I had remembered - something my brother Will would just laugh at if he had seen me frantically searching.

I got to the Eugenia Hotel and had a Spanglish conversation to get my room keys and to explain that the other 11 in my group would be arriving much later in the evening. After settling into my room and filming a quick video in Spanish, I headed out on the town.

(Still trying to figure out how to insert the video...).

The women at the front desk gave me a map and directions to the post office, which I found without too much trouble. I took the bus (which cost $0.25 -- 1/9th of a subway trip in NYC and Chicago) to get there and the security guard saw that I didn't really know what I was doing, so he lent me his pen and helped me get envelopes to mail to the U.S. for Dad's birthday card.

I was surprised that even though it is a warm and sunny 25 degrees outside (in Celsius, roughly 77 degrees Fahrenheit), that nearly everyone had on long pants and long sleeves. I wore the same thing so as not to stand out, but was I the only one who was sweating?  My shirt was drenched when I got back to the hotel.

Eugenia Hotel welcome sign

I first wondered that when we touched down in Panama City because everyone outside (baggage handlers, etc.) had a hat and long pants/sleeves. My guess is that the proximity to the equator makes everyone much more cautious about their sun exposure. Speaking of Panama, it was absolutely breathtaking flying in there! There were skyscrapers nestled right up next to the water, making the land look extremely thin. It appeared as though the buildings were about to topple into the ocean! I snapped some really cool photos from the air as we were flying into the city.

Skyline view of Panamá City

A canal in Panama...the Panama Canal? ...wink, wink...

Ecuador was distinctly breathtaking as well.  I couldn't see the coast as we approached for the clouds, but the mainland was terrain like I have never seen before.  There were major cliffs right next to towns, winding their way along both paved and unpaved roads.  I was so busy exclaiming (yes, out loud, on a crowded airplane!), that I'm surprised I had time to snap any photos.

Flying into Quito

Estadio Olímpico (soccer stadium)

On the way back from the post office, I wanted to find an internet cafe to email Mom & Dad to ease their worries of my being alone in a foreign country.  There was a huge mall nearby, across the street from a park where boys were playing soccer, and I found an internet cafe inside.  I swear I was ripping them off when my 18 minutes of use only cost me $0.60, but then I later found out that we had free internet in our hotel the whole time, so it was just a sixty-cent adventure and Spanish lesson.

That email written, I knew it was nap time, so I headed back to the hotel on the bus (where I was the Great White Giant among a sea of young Ecuadorians just getting out of school), and crashed for two hours.  Our room is so cute, and the beds are perfectly comfortable - as evidenced by the afternoon snoozefest - but I am DYING for Davis to get here!  I love speaking Spanish and hanging out by myself in a foreign country, but let's get this party started!

I'm definitely in love with Ecuador after only one day here.  From the smiling, helpful people to the laid back lifestyle to the gorgeous weather, I could definitely see myself living here for a while.  It feels very safe (here, in the capital), which might be perceived as American naivete, but after living in New York for nearly four years, I know the difference between a safe and an unsafe situation.  Although I was the Great White Giant on the bus and received quite a few stares, I just eavesdropped on conversations and enjoyed immersing myself in another culture.  All the while, I stayed hyper aware of my surroundings.  Don't worry, Mom, I'm being smart!

Tell me, if you were alone in a foreign city for a day, what would you do?  Would you mail your dad a birthday card?!

It's now 7:37am on 2/5 and I have just finished eating my plane breakfast of a dry waffle and barely distinguishable sausage link, fruit and weak coffee, but you can't complain when airlines actually serve food!  I got to JFK airport extremely early after messing up on the subway and taking the A train uptown instead of downtown.  Nice move, Blair.  Prior to that blunder, I almost went to the wrong airport - thinking I was flying out of Newark and not JFK.  Again, nice move. 

Both mistakes corrected, I decided to buck up and take a cab instead of trying to fight my loopy brain at 2am.  My cab driver Luis was really friendly, a little too friendly, at 2am, but he was so eager and outgoing, I couldn't fault him for having the energy I lacked.  We had a nice conversation about my upcoming trip, his schoolwork and the weather -- he definitely earned his tip!

Standing in line at Copa Airlines, I made friends with the cutest three year-old who had the most elaborate hair and a lot of energy for 3am. Her parents were such a cute little couple (literally little: I towered over them).

Davis is probably en route to the airport in Chicago where she has a 9am flight (mine was at 5:07am and if I've slept at all it is only barely because I have been freezing on the plane). She meets a big group in Atlanta - her uncle Jim and Donna Cornish, her aunt Liz Cornish, her cousin Allison Cornish and two couples, Jeannie & Tom Guskey and Mary Diane & Lyle Hanna - to fly together to Quito, where I will already be and where Davis's parents, Caroline & Joe Federspiel will arrive an hour prior to the big group.

The other 11 in my group arrive late this evening, and I get to Quito around 1:30pm. Although I'm excited to see everyone, of course, I'm also really looking forward to spending time alone in the city today and practicing my Spanish.

As I sit here trying to capture every moment, I hope this is absolutely everything I've built it up to be: a true once-in-a-lifetime experience...and with my best friend in the world! I can't believe the first day is already upon us.

Has anyone else ever taken a trip with a best friend you rarely get to see? Tell me about it!

Eager Anticipation

Fly it did not, as we both stayed unbelievably late in the four days leading up to our vacation, we IMed each other periodically throughout the workday to remind one another that our Much Needed Vacation was nearing.  I'm sure my colleagues got sick of my countdown to the Galápagos, even though I was trying to restrain myself from talking about it (I swear I was!).

Thursday has finally arrived and again I had to stay late at work finishing up some projects, but it felt so great to finally write the email to my team saying I would be completely out of touch for the next 10 days!  I was so excited that I even put an out of town message on my Gmail account to let everyone know I would be unreachable until 2/15.

Let vacation officially begin!

Davis and I had packed almost completely on Sunday night, but somehow I still found myself with a million small things to do before I left. From painting my toenails to figuring out how to use my underwater digital camera to fitting all the little things into my bag, I didn't get to sleep at all before Friday began.  I took a 45-minute rest around 11:30pm and then hopped into the shower at 12:30am on Friday, February 5th to begin my journey to South America.

Has anyone else traveled on 0 hours of sleep?  I wouldn't recommend it, but sometimes there's no choice.  Any good plane sleepers with some advice?

Get pumped (and packed)!

Thanks to an awesome Christmas present from my parents, my new Mac enabled me to video chat with Davis tonight -- the Sunday before our departure to South America.  After a few technical glitches - okay, maybe it was the operators' faults - we settled into our rooms to show each other our Keen shoes, favorite t-shirts and scary bikinis as we decided which items were going to make it into our bags.  It was a pretty funny scene pausing with each clothing item in front of the computer, showing the other person, and making a joint decision about what made the cut.  My friend Becca who I met studying abroad in Spain during my junior year in college loaned me her sweet backpack for the trip - it has a mini-backpack on the front for day trips - thanks, Bex!

As we lamented about stuffing our winterized bodies into skimpy bikinis, our excitement mounted with the anticipation of the unbelievable journey.  "Can you believe it's this week?" we kept asking each other, between squeals of joy.  Bags packed with plenty of athletic apparel and travel gear, we hit the hay on Sunday night ready for the week ahead to fly.

I'm usually not a good packer - does anyone have any packing advice?  How do you bring all the right things without bringing too much?

The Trip of a Lifetime

My best friend Davis asked me early last summer if I would ever be interested in going to the Galápagos on a trip with her extended family. She warned me that this would be a "big girl trip," and that no sponsorships would be provided, so we would each have to finance our own trips. I told her that I would be crazy not to accept, but to please not tell me how much it would cost, for fear that the cost alone would cause me to object. When I went to Westport, NY for vacation with her family (her mom's family has been going there for 50 years), her uncle Jim asked me about the trip and I immediately committed.

I couldn't believe it! I had just committed to a crazy expensive trip, but one that I knew would be the trip of a lifetime. We will be traipsing across Ecuador in early February 2010 and I will tell you all about it here.  Hope you enjoy the journey!


Has anyone else been to the Galápagos?  What islands did you visit?  Where did you fly into in Ecuador?  Tell me all about it!